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The Graphic Foodie | Brighton Food Blog & Restaurant Reviews


What’s good about pizza? Ooozing creamy buffalo mozzarella, affettati like salami, prosciutto and everyone’s favourite sausage du jour n’duja…but Purezza offer none of that, being a 100% plant-based pizzeria, the first in the UK none the less.



For all the many, many pizzas I’ve eaten in my time, the menu here is unlike any other pizzeria I’ve been to. They even make their own cheese alternatives, headlined by the all important mozzarella. Their version is made, somehow, with Italian brown rice. I tried to read up about it, something to do with rice sprouts to make rice milk..micronutrients..animoacids…blah, blah, blah. But does it taste good? It actually takes ok. I wouldn’t want to eat a block of it but melted on the pizza it was just fine and I bet most people wouldn’t even notice the difference.

The bases, it has to be said, are phenomenal. Although you can go for a Sussex-grown hemp flour base (could this be any more Brighton) or gluten free, I stayed safe with the traditional wholegrain sourdough. Beautifully crafted, super light, fluffy and pillowy, the base really was one of the best I’ve had. The cornicione was enormous but fully cooked and airy, you would easily eat the lot and not feel over-full.

Topping choices have been well considered, the Margherita and Marinara the only instantly recognisable ones amid some really interesting ideas. A good mix of both white and red sauce bases are on offer and only half have alternative meats on them although they can be added as an option.



The Green Supreme that I finally chose is just a reinvention of a classic friarielli (broccoli/spinach hybrid) and spicy sausage pizza I know and love. This being vegan the sausage was some sort of alternative meat and truthfully, I did miss the texture and taste of the real deal a little, but the combination with the mozzarella and bagfuls of spice from the chillis it was a great eat.



The slice from the other side of the table, a Season 4 Pizza 1 with mozzarella, artichokes, kalamata olives, beautiful trumpet wild mushrooms and a smoked beetroot carpaccio was also delicious. Sweet, piquant and well balanced and actually, a picturesque pizza if I ever saw one.

Not all the toppings work, on a separate visit I tried the Telling Porkies with marinated pulled BBQ pieces which I found dessert-like sweet, and truffle head I am, had great expectations of the Here Comes Truffle. This was fine, if slightly too earthy and muddy, and the generous wild mushrooms on top actually made it a tad sloppy.

For all the grown up Dominos weirdos out there that like dips for their crust, there are plenty to choose from including some interesting options like banana ketchup. This was so bizarre I had to try it, definitely a Marmite-love-or-hate thing, it wasn’t for me with the sweetness, but my dining pal happily polished off the lot.

Again sides are not something I order with pizza but looking round the restaurant I know I’m outnumbered on this too with diners supplementing their carbs with carbs (I always empathise with the chef in the film Big Night on this) with pots of mac’n’cheese, dough balls or getting their greens in with a salad or courgetti dish. 

The wine list is ideal for pizza with a line up of the Italian classics but there are good fresh cold-pressed juices and soft drinks available. I also noticed diners knocking back cocktails with their pizza. Why the hell not, eh?



Desserts are a vegan and gluten-free choice dream, with Purezza’s take on tiramisu, Lemon cheesecake, gelato and even an Oreo pizza. The "tiramisu" was a slop of cashew cream and a single cheesecake style base that was lost on me - texturally and taste-wise. I am just not able to smash a dessert pizza after a pizza meal, so I found the oreo pizza stodgy and sickly - but give me a coffee and a slice of this mid-afternoon and I'm all in. However, the salted caramel brownie was rich and fudgy. A perfect semi-sweet note to end on.

Service was very good, fun and friendly. There naturally needs to be a bit more explaining with some of the foods served here and staff are well versed on the menu. You can’t book for two but I suggest putting your name down and heading over the road to La Mucca Nera gelateria for an aperitif.



The restaurant itself is now beautiful and on-brand. I remember when it opened with school-caff seating and scratchy plastic tables that didn’t get the ethos of the food across at all. Luckily that was skipped in favour of natural wood, warm lighting with a little industrial edge and the pizza oven in pride of place.

Worth noting is that kids eat free with each paying adult and I’ll definitely return with my pizza mad mini crew in tow.

I dined with my die-hard Vegan friend who raves about this restaurant and the fact that it is packed to the rafters on most days, lunch and dinner, is a clear sign they are doing it right. Whatever your diet, and this is a particularly good choice for those that are meat, dairy or gluten-free, there’s plenty to love about Purezza. 

Purezza
12 St James's Street
Brighton BN2 1RE 

also at 43 Parkway
Camden Town
London NW1 7PN
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Last week I headed over to Fatto A Mano to try out their gluten free pizza bases. Now this was my first sample of gluten free pizza but in the past I have seen some very sorry examples, either tiny, pre-frozen or just very, very sad. FAM have waited until now as they have been perfecting the dough which uses a rice and potato based flour blend. Impressive to look at (almost identical to a regular pizza) with a real cornicone and blistering to boot. It was a little spongy for me but Alice Reeves over at Gluten Free Dining RAVES about it in her review so I would say it's the answer to Gluten Free diners prayers. You can top it with vegan cheese and even wash it down with gluten free beer. Bravo fattoamanopizza.com


Brighton Tap Takeover is back on 31 March to 2 April 2017 in pubs across Brighton which sees craft beer breweries taking over the taps at 14 of our best Brighton pubs. Each of the brewers takes over the taps of their partnered pubs to create the world’s greatest pub crawl, with each of the city centre pubs within a 10 minute walk. As well as great beer, the pubs are gearing up for a weekend of fun, food, beer education and great music. Wristbands for the event - which come pre-loaded with four beers, swag bag and priority entry are available now for £15 from www.taptakeover.co.uk. I'll be running a competition for wristbands over on my Instagram page shortly!


Also on the booze are the fabulous team over at Brighton Food Tours who are offering a monthly drinks special, starting Sat 8th April 3-6pm - featuring mostly alcoholic drinks, some not… but all designed to surprise and delight. Their tours are really fun and informative with plenty of hidden gems which showcase our city's best food and drink spots and producers.
There have been a few really good new Brighton boutique food producers cropping up this year. One is AM.LOU, a Moroccan inspired breakfast spread made from 3 organic ingredients; almonds, culinary argan oil and honey. It's flipping delicious! I polished off the whole jar bar what my kids could tear away from me. It's like a rich, decadent and grown up version of peanut butter, toasted, sweet almonds with a real savoury kick from the argan oil. It's made by hand in small batches here in Brighton and available in Flour Pot Bakery, Hisbe or via their website. A must try. amloutree.com


Hygge was a MASSIVE trend for this year and nothing says it more than big blankets and comfort eating. But slaving away in the kitchen for hours on hend is not hygge - no, no. Enter SØDT (pronounced soot, which means sweet in Danish) who hand make frozen, ready to bake Danish pastries. Take them out of your freezer, heat the oven and 20 minutes later you have delicious freshly baked treats. Order from www.sodt.co.uk
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It has been a while since I last visited Brighton vegetarian Food For Friends, but it's had a glitzy new face lift and a menu shake up so a revisit was due. The lick of paint has been a success, the soft greys and golds make for a rather beautiful, smart and modern space to dine in.



Every time I visit I try the tofu. I'm almost desperate to discover the draw of this substance. This time I ordered the recommended crispy tofu which surprisingly arrived spongy and soft. Unfortunately it still delivered on the tofu promise. With more invention in plant based dining I am even more puzzled as to why people still eat this stuff.


Much better was the daily soup. A comforting country style bean soup, with chunky vegetables and plenty of herbs and interest. It came with a nice little brioche bun too.


Impressive was my main, a tahini marinated, silky roast aubergine, topped with chipotle pepper and tomato ragout. I loved this and was packed with flavour and texture. There was a good spice heat in addition to smoky chipotle undertones and a sweetness from a drizzle of pomegranate molasses.  The slices of saffron potatoes made the dish a substantial feed, a good thing in my book. Delicious to the last forkful.



My friend ordered the piquillo peppers which was a beautifully presented plate of food, like a line of Italian cornicelli. The vibrant streaks of wasabi pea purée had the perfect amount of heat. The rice balls, I suppose a battered version of arancini, lacked a little flavour, but overall it was enjoyable enough.



Desserts don't seem to change much here. The sweet coconut arancini and sticky toffee pudding  are still on the menu and after I ordered, I realised I'd also had the chocolate truffle torte before. Still it was thoughtfully and elegantly presented, just suffering a little from the chill of the fridge which impacts the taste of chocolate, but hey, it got polished off. (I'm not mentioning the slate.)

All in all it was a nice meal but at every visit I always feel there's a missing ingredient with FFF's food. Don't get me wrong everything is nice; nice presentation, nice decor, nice location, nice menu design...but it just off the mark to make it particularly stand out. Although you will generally always enjoy your meal here, aside from the odd dish that is a real win, mostly there is something that falls short of perfection on each plate. Food For Friends is one of the longest standing restaurants in Brighton which is to be respected, but with the local food scene getting stronger month by month, particularly for plant based dining, it really needs to up its game. Nice just doesn't cut the mustard today.

The only real negative of our visit was the aggressive, frosty welcome which actually inspired the couple behind us to leave the restaurant open mouthed after being ordered around quite brusquely. Luckily another member of staff rescued the day for us (as well as our botched booking) but in all honesty, I had one foot outside the door as well. Had I not been in for review I would have left too. Service really is as important as the food and can leave a bad taste in your mouth for the rest of the meal. However, after being seated we were looked after very well for the duration of our visit by the nicer staff member (who was, it has to be said, a delight).

As I said, plant based dining has been embraced by a wider audience than just the vegetarian community. Many meat eaters (myself included) are choosing more sustainable and healthier options and with new openings like Rootcandi and even non-vegetarian restaurants like Silo and 64 degrees offering stunning meat-free options, there are new friends to make out there.

Food For Friends
17-18 Prince Albert St
Brighton BN1 1HF
I was invited to review Food For Friends.
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2015 seems to be THE year for "clean eating". My twitter feed is full of juice cleanses, 5:2 dishes and general healthy eating gloating. (Me and my 1kg jar of Nutella are keeping quiet.) So it's probably ideal timing for Eat Naked, Brighton's first clean eating super food cafe, which serves nourishing, natural food, free from chemicals and processing, gluten, wheat, refined sugars and pretty much free from dairy too. 



They are open for grab and go breakfasts (granola and acai pots), coffee and treats, health targeted smoothies and cleansing juices. You can also get pretty substantial lunch boxes as well. The format is pretty simple where you pick a main (free range chicken, organic beef, salmon or vegetarian special), base (brown rice or leaves), two salads and a dip/sauce. All in all this costs from £7-8.50 or £5 for just the salads.



I had the de rigueur courgetti as one of my salads. These were really good, super fine and still crisp, served with a lesser known Sicilian trapanese pesto made with almonds. Nut based sauces are actually incredibly popular in certain Italian regions and this was a good reminder why. The other salad was packed with spicy super greens (kale, green beans and broccoli stem) stir fried with chilli, ginger, black sesame and tamari. Two things I love are beetroot and hummus so the dip choice was perfect to me and the hot smoked salmon was delicious too. Overall I couldn't have asked for a more balanced, filling lunch. It kept me satisfied until dinner which rarely happens! 


The sweet options are very smart concept. Snickers, Bounty...all our naughty brand favourites reinvented. To be honest, I'm just getting my head around gluten and dairy free treats. They tend to have nuts and dried fruit pastes as their base, giving them a squishy texture which wheat eaters may not be used to. But with my nutrition head on, these are useful energy boosters with good fats to keep you going. I really quite liked them here and the "Snickers" felt particularly indulgent too with a rich gooey centre, crunchy nut base and raw cacao top.

Ingredients are carefully sourced and of a good quality although I expect the price point is will limit most people to a weekly or biweekly lunch treat here.



The location of Eat Naked is a tricky one. Hidden away in the East Street Arcade amongst niche designer boutiques and overpriced sportswear, it will struggle with casual passing trade. But to my mind, there isn't another place offering wholly "free" foods. I imagine if you are on a restricted diet, for whatever reason, it must be rather liberating to be able to choose anything you see. So hopefully they will prove themselves to be a destination eatery, which we have seen work quite well in Brighton before (think Coal Shed and Curry Leaf Cafe). If you do visit, you'll find a really nicely put together place with a small bar for you to sit at if you wanted the option to dine in.

Behind the counter you will probably find the raven haired beaut that is Stacie Stewart who you may recognise from Masterchef, although she looks a little different now, clearly practising what she preaches and inspired enough to open this place.

I think people in Brighton are generally quite conscious of what they are eating and maybe that's why Eat Naked feels right at home here.

Eat Naked
16 East Street Arcade, Brighton
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We see a lot of Neapolitan style pizza in the UK but less of Roman Al Taglio, which is baked in large rectangular trays and sold by the slice or even by the weight. It's thicker and more rigid than Neapolitan, more like a fine focaccia, but still absolutely delicious for lunch on the fly. The "Michelangelo of pizza", Gabriele Bonci is one of the best - when in Rome, do as the Romans do and head to Pizzarium, trust me. You'll also commonly see Scrocchiarella which is another type of Roman pizza that is very thin and crisp and I think this is the style My Slice have gone with.

Now, pizza is all about the dough which is a live beast. Great dough is full of flavour, vibrancy and character. Eating it makes you feel good, it's the classic comfort food. But great dough needs to be fresh and you need a truckload of skill to craft it well.



But here the bases are ludicrously thin, with hardly any air and the reheating process dries the base out further. (The gluten free options were thinner still at literally 2mm thick! Great if you are on a diet.) It lacks any sort of personality really, it just exists as a crisp carrier to the topping. Scrocchiarella bases are fine if you are enjoying full pizzas but for a decent feed by the slice, you would need a few for a satisfying lunch. I personally think al taglio is more suited to the thin focaccia style; easy to eat on the go, satisfying and as much as I hate the term, has great mouth feel.


gluten-free bases - oh dear
To be fair, the kitchen set up at Cranbourne Street would make it impossible to make the dough on site, so it comes as no surprise that it is actually made and part-baked in Italy, blast frozen and delivered to Brighton. I'm sure the dough is probably perfectly fine, but I imagine the freezing and re-baking process must affect the result. It just doesn't compare to the texture and taste of al taglio I've eaten in Italy, and I've eaten A LOT! Also, not making the fundamental part of your product yourself is rather puzzling. (Far better if you fancy a trip to Hove and want to try an al taglio-ish style, is at baking heavyweights Sugar Dough - soon to have a Brighton location.)



Anyway, base aside I was pleased to see the classic potato and rosemary on offer and toppings all looked quite nice and fresh. There are also salads and some sweet muffins and flapjacks for sale too.

As an alternative to a sarnie when you are shopping I would say pop in and give them a go, it's affordable and pleasant enough.



The location, right by Churchill Square shopping centre may well prove be their saviour as the footfall alone will keep them in the black I'm sure. But for me, no, it doesn't make me nostalgic for a taste of home at all.

https://www.facebook.com/myslicepizzabrighton
Cranbourne Street, Brighton
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The Graphic Foodie

About Me

With a love of my home town, this blog lists frequently updated Brighton restaurant reviews for both Brightonians and visitors to navigate to all the best food spots in the city. Although the focus is on our fantastic local independent restaurants, you can also discover selected cafes, supper clubs and pop-up restaurants. In the mix are also my kitchen experiments and family recipes from the Abruzzo region of Italy, food-related design, product reviews and book recommendations.

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