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The Graphic Foodie | Brighton Food Blog & Restaurant Reviews


Ah, beautiful, beautiful bread. Vilified in recent years by the trend dieter bores, the loaf is back on the table and so happy I am it is. From fine dining restaurants making the humble bread a star in its own right with glossy glazes and quirky ingredients, winged by some exotic butter or other to artisan bakeries popping up on every street, we are back to loving a slice of the good stuff.

Though Real Pâtisserie have been in Brighton for close to two decades now and their Chewy Brown loaf can be found tucked under my arm on a Saturday morning and also in many of the decent cafes on their breakfast and lunch menus.

On a Sunday morning though, when the bakery is closed, you can go one step further and learn how to make decent bread yourself. But good bread isn't easy and takes a bit of science, physical work, love and time to get right.



Here you'll learn about starters and yeast, flour qualities and the basic proportional ingredients of a loaf. But what is really key is the technique. You can also read every recipe out there but nothing compares to being shown first hand from the professionals the right temperature, touch and skill. Most doughs are really wet and tricky to work with, but with the right knack, transform into the sort of bread that will make you swear off the supermarket stuff for life.



I've been baking since 2011 where I went on a similar course and that really made a difference to my baking ability and I've used a sourdough starter since. The course, led by Wojciech, the Head Baker at Kemptown, was equally as good and one for you if you're serious about starting baking at home, or upping your skills and ditching the breadmaker. It was well paced, informative and very hands on, delivered in an enjoyable but professional way, and class sizes are kept small so is very attentive. Some of the forms were difficult (I'll never look at a baguette in the same way) but Wojciech ensured everyone was correctly following instruction and corrected each where needed.



We broke for lunch and were treated to a slice of the legendary RP quiches, salads and breads, and were offered hot chocolate fondants and coffee to power us through too.



Although Christmas and January looked all booked up, the course would make an awesome gift for someone (one of the students attending was celebrating their 40th) or a fun date activity (two couples and a mum and daughter team made up the rest of the group).



I will say this is reasonably demanding, and a long day on your feet (God bless the real bakers out there), but went by like a flash and at the end you'll be laden with a selection of beautiful loaves, crafted by your own hands. I was so happy with my rye and caraway and wheat sourdough loaves, focaccia and baguette. I'd like to say they fully stocked my freezer but everyone knows real bread is just too darn irresistible. 

Courses run monthly on Sundays from their Kemp Town shop and cost £80 but will generally get quite booked up. Visit www.realpatisserie.co.uk for details and how to book.

I attended as a guest of Real Pâtisserie but words and opinion, as always, my own. 
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After reading glowing review after glowing review of Sugardough, I finally managed to get over the border to Hove to pay them a visit. The issue was I waited until I was on a dairy free diet trial (feeding a windy baby). And what I liked most about Sugardough was that, despite a huge selection, there was NOTHING I could eat under that dietary restriction. With no apologies, the food here is created for taste and everyone knows that baking includes truckload of dairy. As it should be.


So instead I watched the constant queue gorge on amazing looking huge pies, quiches, gorgeous tarts, pastries and cakes. They are super busy here and for an uninspired stretch of retail near the King Alfred is quite an achievement. Word on the street is that they are looking to come to Brighton. Here's hoping.

The interior is really cute too with lots of antique furniture and display cases to give it a homely, lived in vibe. If you can secure yourself one of the few tables, it's a really nice spot for lunch or breakfast. 


But really, I was here for the pizza (what, really?!), which they sell al taglio (by the slice). Unlike the classic Neapolitan style pizza, this is closer to Roman style and even closer to a type of pizza they sell in Italian bakeries (never pizzerias) called Pizza Rossa. This typically is a dough base cooked in large trays with copious amounts of olive oil. This results in almost a fried quality to the base and if you are lucky enough to get a corner piece, you'll find it slightly charred and chewy. Probably the most delicious thing you'll put in your mouth. But unlike the pizza rossa which is only ever topped with tomato sauce and herbs, Sugardough have more variations like roast vegetables or (a Roman classic) Potato and rosemary. 


Although not quite exactly like the pizza rossa back home, it's pretty close and worth a trip to get yourself a slice. 

I did get to try a loaf of the bread though, an unusual potato, rosemary and garlic loaf, which I really enjoyed. All the bread looks great, especially the beautiful spelt loaves. 


Happily, I'm now back on the dairy, so I'll definitely be back to sample a lot more.

5 Victoria Terrace, Hove
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sugardough/161421667339272
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Brighton has had such a ressurgance of quality baked goods that would make Atkins roll over in his grave. Carbaholics like me are positively rejoicing though!

Flour Pot Bakery has been supplying local stores and restaurants with their breads for a while but they now have their own café and bread shop in the North Laine. And a beautiful store it is too. The interior is everything a contemporary bakery should be, with gorgeous industrial copper lighting, cool marble worktops and a unique point of sale unit for the breads. It's predominantly black and white and just the right side of the artisan hipster design trend.



There are just a few seats inside and personally I would have reduced the imposing bar to accommodate more tables, especially in the winter months where their outside seating will be impractical. But for now, it's a good place to perch for morning pastries or a quick lunch although the narrow pavement is entertaining when the delivery lorries pass.

They also don't seem to have a complete website which in this day and age (and the fact they have such a solid brand and beautiful fit out) is nothing short of insanity. Even a single page with opening times and address would do them good, for flapjacks sake. Their Facebook page is better if you can be bothered to navigate through posts to find opening times; 8am until 7pm (9am - 6pm on Sundays, you're welcome.

But hey, if you manage to negotiate the opening times and grab a prized seat then it's well worth a visit. From the small selection of daily treats, I tasted quite possibly the lightest polenta cake on the planet. I thought the one I make was pretty darn good but this was, as it pains me to say, better. Laden with finely ground almonds and drenched in citrus sugar syrup, it was topped with the most beautiful emerald pistachios. You can wash down your cakes and pastries with (obligatory for Brighton) Small Batch coffee.






For lunch there could be more of an offering of sandwiches with just a couple to choose from, but they obviously use their own bread and rolls which is a bonus. The flatbreads didn't really appeal as there is something very off-putting about dried melted cheese. The chunky sausage rolls looked impressive and my dining partner liked his lamb Moroccan inspired version although I didn't get a chance to try it.



I also swung by a week or so later after work to pick up a couple of their loaves; a classic ciabatta and a rustic. Although service was shaky, the bread was decent. The ciabatta had that slightly plastic texture to the dough you'd expect and was fully aerated. The crust was absolutely delicious too. I gifted the rustic to my parents and they said it was excellent, and they are even fussier about real bread than I am. At around £1.80-£3.00 depending on the size of loaf, it isn't too bad a cost to pay for the real deal.



I'm really pleased that Flour Pot Bakery has taken the leap to their own cafe and shop, although the service could do with sharpening up, on three visits there was some sort of niggle or issue but their product is great, which is the main thing.

Flour Pot Bakery
40 Sydney Street
Brighton
BN1 4EP
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"Vibe" is not the sort of word I'd often use but The Hearth in Lewes oozes great ones. Maybe it's the well worn environment of a cozy former bus station or because everyone is essentially dining around fire (their own-built wood oven) and the warmth is both literal and symbolic. I don't know, but I love it, especially that smoky smell of the place.

And you may very well know my feelings about the pizza at The Hearth, I don't think there is anyone producing pizza like it in Brighton area and it's worth the schlep out to Lewes to get a decent one there. But they also do special events and workshops that often go beyond the breads they are well known for. Clearly, a pizza oven is not just for cooking pizza!

The dinner I attended this week followed a day of workshops with renound baker Dan Lepard, who some may know from Australian Bake Off or his impressive CV, baking for acclaimed restaurants. Sadly I had to work so missed out but managed to hot foot it up in the evening.



We started things with something I haven't had in a long time. The retro Italian classic Bagna Cauda. Meaning "hot bath", it is essentially a thick, warm dip of oil, anchovies, garlic, lemon and butter. As I dipped the warm pieces of freshly baked Schiacciata bread (like a flat focaccia) and, what is more commonly served with bagna cauda, crudites, it was a real taste of Italy. I can't believe I haven't made this dish, it's far more interesting than most dips with that intense savoury taste of anchovies, sofened by butter and oil. Try it if you can.



The main course, was one of the best pork dishes I've had and as for the crackling! The taste of meat that has been slow-cooked in a wood-fired oven is unlike anything you can recreate at home. Smoke and flame help add such a deep flavour to it. The Hearth should really consider doing a Sunday roast in if this was anything to go by. Simply served with intense gravy and roast vegetables in stock, they were all that was needed as side-kicks to that meat.



Dan made a typical Italian style apple cake to finish with and I also got my first taste of The Hearth's gelato, peppered with raisins soaked in Amaretto. They'll be serving that in the restaurant as well as out the front in their kiosk.

It was a perfect end to a perfect meal and I was very happy to have experienced the evening.



Everyone had a great time. The atmosphere is always welcoming and informal at The Hearth and the passion from the people behind it is immeasurable. I met Kate from Great British Bake off and some other lovely local food people too. Even food writer Andy Lynes was spotted wielding the peel by in the kitchen!

Try and catch one of their upcoming events at http://www.thehearth.co/events-and-news, there is even talk that Kate may even be co-hosting an event there soon. And if you haven't gone for one of their pizzas yet, then please, please go soon. It would make this little Italian lady very happy if you do.

http://www.thehearth.co/
Eastgate
Lewes, BN7 2LP

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The Graphic Foodie

About Me

With a love of my home town, this blog lists frequently updated Brighton restaurant reviews for both Brightonians and visitors to navigate to all the best food spots in the city. Although the focus is on our fantastic local independent restaurants, you can also discover selected cafes, supper clubs and pop-up restaurants. In the mix are also my kitchen experiments and family recipes from the Abruzzo region of Italy, food-related design, product reviews and book recommendations.

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