REVIEW: Pizza7, Brighton

by - January 03, 2014

UPDATE: Unsurprisingly Pizza7 has now closed. Curry Leaf Cafe has now opened which is a gem. Review coming shortly.

Pizza7 has everything it needs to be successful. A well designed, appropriate venue in a central location with exposed brick, rough wood furniture and colourful, comfortable metal seating. It has a wood-fired oven (one of the few in Brighton) with expensive, smokeless wood briquettes. They have an extensive craft beer selection and good wines. The attention to detail about the place is wonderful. In a city where finding good pizza is like searching for some holy carby grail, Pizza7 could have been the answer to all my prayers. Toppings are select but varied and often local, and pineapple is happily not even an option on the sensibly sized menu either.

Except, the only detail that seems to have been overlooked is the house pizza dough recipe itself. Hell, even the bread with the olives was better - airy and chewy with a crisp crust. The pizza itself was a little on the too thin side and just didn't have the structure to hold up the toppings. It had none of the chewy pull or even the slight delicious char you get with a wood fired pizza. The recipe could always include a bit of sough dough stater to give it flavour. I mean it was edible, and in pizza deprived Brighton possibly even passable to most, but why it couldn't be as good as a Franco Manca or any decent pizzeria in Italy I have no idea. Everything is there for them to be so. I suppose the warning must have been the fact that we were the only diners on a Saturday lunchtime, another group coming in as we left.

As you can see my Margarita pizza was suffering with what I call "baker's droop" not helped by the huge amount of cheese piled on. I usually ask for a fraction of the cheese as for some reason pizza in the UK is doused with the stuff, but forgot to request less. Mr. GF's mushroom, olive, South Coast coppa and rocket fared better with less cheese.

Good points are the beer, the menu and local ingredients and lack of any of that weird stuff you find on pizza menus over here like chicken wings. Basically you have a few starters, seven pizza choices (which is plenty) and one pasta dish as an alternative. The tomato sauce was good, not overly herby like some make it. 

I'd love to see Pizza7 become the go-to for pizza in the city, heaving with people for lunch and dinner. Taking the present fashion for artisan fast food and craft beer, Pizza7 should have Brighton's 90% hipster population twitching their moustaches and queuing round the corner. As it is by nature a speedy meal for people to grab, the sheer cash they could make from the fast turn around on tables would have the accountant tap dancing. They only have to fix that one crucial element. 

60 Ship Street
Brighton BN1 1AE

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