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The Graphic Foodie | Brighton Food Blog & Restaurant Reviews

Afternoon tea at The Salt Room Brighton savoury layer

I love the tradition of proper afternoon tea. Impeccable service, starched tablecloths, someone tinkling the ivories, fine china and silverware and an eye-watering bill to finish. But this has always involved a trip up to London where they have a wealth of options for the experience. Brighton just doesn't have the same attitude to luxury, I don't know why, we just don't seem to do it in the traditional sense - if we do it's always with a twist or quirk and that suits us just fine.

Which leads us onto the newly launched Afternoon Tea at The Salt Room, who are still flying high from that glowing review by Jay Rayner. The interior here is refined with a healthy dose of on-trend industrial aesthetic. Everything is well considered and the staff are stylish and professional in equal measure. Instead of a crisp white jacket and a plummy accent, our waitress had soft pink hair and a flower tucked behind her ear and had such a brilliant demeanour, both charming and fun, that she genuinely added to the experience.

Afternoon tea stand and table at The Salt Room Brighton

Every head in the room turned as the stand was brought in topped with two candy floss (could it scream Brighton any louder??), the visual is certainly impressive and a nod to The Salt Room's now infamous Taste Of The Pier dessert plate. Noone could help being impressed with this, it was absolutely beautiful.

Afternoon tea at The Salt Room Brighton savoury layer

Starting with the fish-based savoury layer, the Crab Scotch Egg was fragrant with tarragon and a nip of chilli and worked perfectly with the sweetness of the crab meat. I think Truffled Grilled Cheese is quite possibly the nicest things you could put in your mouth. Anything truffle and I'm in - this was glorious and such a welcome break from the finger sandwiches you'd expect. The Salmon and Squid Ink Bun was striking but somehow needed something, more seasoning maybe or more of a hit of flavour in the bun as it diluted the salmon and horseradish filling. A pig to eat was the Aged Beef Tartare & Egg Yolk Jam Sandwich, served between two crisp pastry layers that shattered on bite impact, but utterly, utterly delicious. Egg yolk and raw beef is a classic pairing but reworked into this little gem was inspired.

Scones and jam at Afternoon tea at The Salt Room Brighton

The little scones, served with home-made clotted cream and strawberry elderflower jam were the perfect size, not too filling and the only real nod to tradition. Still, I was happy they were there.

Sweet layer of cakes and chocolate Afternoon tea at The Salt Room Brighton

The sweet layer is a picture right? The crowning glory of the event. Present were the Chocolate Pebbles everyone seems to go crazy for - sugar coated chocolate truffles that are too sweet for me but I'm not a huge fan of chocolates (give me another slice of that truffled grilled cheese any day). Sadly our Rhubarb and Custard Macaroon had disintegrated into the plate - maybe we had been talking too long. Shame as they were nicely flavoured and the dehydrated rhubarb shards that topped them deliciously tart in themselves. Disappointing was the slice of heavy and claggy Pistachio & Raspberry Battenberg, I'm not really sure what the issue was here but Paul Hollywood would have pulled one of his faces for sure. Whilst I think they probably need to bring the sweet elements to the same exceptional standard as the savoury, we ended on a high with the most beautiful Orange & Yuzu Posset, really refreshing and light, served in a delicate meringue case.

Interior at The Salt Room Brighton

I have to say we didn't sample any of the tea - why would you when the bar here is one of the best in town and there's a Champagne option. Plus, I was with the effortlessly stylish Alexis from Style Memos - a dear friend and one serious social influencer, and meeting her always calls for a celebratory drink to supplement our hundred mile an hour chatter.

The teas are from JING and there is a reasonable selection or you can opt for a gin and tonic, Champagne or sweet wine (nice to see an ice wine on the list) or a tea-tail which is a cocktail with tea infused gin and vodka.

As the afternoon tea here is fish based I chose a Gin Mare which is becoming a bit of a favourite. It's slightly savoury with Mediterranean herbs and olive notes and served with samphire. Perfect choice for the savoury layer of food.

Price-wise it's a fraction of the cost of what you'd pay in the capital and excellent value for money too, starting at £24.95 with coffee or tea, £29.95 with gin and £34.95 with a glass of Taittinger Champagne.

Interior and Afternoon tea at The Salt Room Brighton

I always get asked for afternoon tea recommendations in Brighton and historically struggled, but now there are a few decent options (none in the main hotels you would expect). This one here at The Salt Room would certainly be up there, particularly for its celebration of the city and position by the sea.

The Salt Room
106 King's Road
Brighton

I dined as a guest of The Salt Room. However words and thoughts, as always, are my own. 
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vegetarian food at MEATLiquor, Brighton

You'd think that vegetarians would burst into flames on passing the doors of MEATLiquor wouldn't you? Home of those messy, naughty burgers that everyone loves diving into, surrounded by graffiti, neon, chain mail booths and nightclub lighting. There's the name too. But here we are, behind the beast it's a pretty inclusive place.

Graffiti interior at MEATLiquor, Brighton

I still can't get over how much I like it here. Anyone that knows me would probably laugh at this - you wouldn't think it would be my thing, but then my collection of heavy metal normally raises a few eyebrows too!

Although I like the standard burgers, being the carnivore I am, today was all about the vegetarian specials and the "dry" cocktails.

cheese and jalapeno poppaz at MEATLiquor, Brighton

Starting with the "Poppaz", which were cheese and jalapeño croquettes, crumbed and deep fried. Eaten molten hot, there's not really too much to complain about. The ranch dressing served with them helped cool down the spice.

mixed salad with blue corn tortillas

I can't imagine salad is the first thing on any one's mind here but after trying it, I would definitely order the Blue Corn Tortilla Salad again. Probably one of the genuine healthier options, this included a decent portion toward your five a day in the beetroot, corn, cucumber, tomato and lettuce. There was a sprinkling of feta and serious crunch from the crushed blue corn tortilla chips and sunflower seeds. It's a really generous size too - at £6.75 a bargain for lunch.

vegetarian, black bean chilli fries at MEATLiquor, Brighton

On the other end of the health scale were the Black Bean Chilli Fries. Beautifully thin fries topped with a well seasoned black bean chilli, jalapeño, finely diced white onion and mustard. (These are vegan without the cheese option by the way.)

Although I really like the chicken Monkey Fingers on the menu, the paneer version made a really nice alternative, the firm texture holding up well. Still slathered in that finger licking hot sauce and served with a blue cheese dip.

blue corn tortillas and cheese dip at MEATLiquor, Brighton

As there was so much food to get through, the cheddar and Hobo Beer dip for the tortillas had congealed a bit as it cooled. That savoury beery taste was there though and eaten hot this would not have been an issue.

dry cocktails at MEATLiquor, Brighton

Drinks were lush and even without the recommended booze addition for each, were really interesting. I hate fizzy soda (cola is the DEVIL), so if I'm not drinking booze I tend to struggle with drinks. Hopefully they'll keep these on past January. Root 69 with it's vibrant colour from the beetroot was fresh and zingy with soda and lemon juice and the Carrot Top with turmeric I could have been drinking in some clean eating cafe for twice the price.

graffiti interior at MEATLiquor, Brighton

Although people should be well and truly off the January wagon by now (MEATliquor even did a ‘Falling Off the MEATwagon’ package deal to celebrate), don't rule this place out if you are going easy on meat or if you are vegetarian/vegan. There are of course still the vegetarian and vegan options on the burger menus as well as the Setan Fingers and sides you can bolt on to the specials. Whilst I would still opt for a Dead Hippie or buffalo wings on future visits (because, you know...MEAT) I would absolutely consider the meat free options again after trying them out.

menu covers at MEATLiquor, Brighton

(Excuse the odd colour on the photography, the interior is bathed in a red light district ambiance.)

MEATLiquor Brighton
22-23 York Place
Brighton BN1 4GU

I dined as a guest of MeatLiquor. Words and thoughts, as always, my own. 
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interior images of talk of tea brighton

Afternoon tea can be a very swish affair; the starched, white tablecloths, the silver spoons, delicate china and impeccable, glossy patisserie. Sigh, I'm a sucker for it...bye bye £100. Talk of Tea in Brighton however, is none of those things. Despite having the city's largest tea list with some incredibly refined options, it is very much an "everyday" venue (their words). And it suits Brighton to a, well, tee.

Located right in the centre of town just off Western Road, it's an intimate little space, decorated with little trinkets, mismatched lanterns, fluro orange walls and charming it is too. There's also a sweet little yard with hanging seats for when the sun shines.

The tea menu lists Temi Tea (A Royal Tea from the only tea garden in the former kingdom of Sikkim), Jasmine Dragon Phoenix Pearls and some fine organic Darjeeling. They have a superb green tea choice and many flavoured teas, including some rather unorthodox blends, Limoncello or Witch Blend anyone?

I had the Milky Oolong which is unlike any other tea. Refreshing, sweet and fragrant with an unmistakable milky taste. I can't get enough of it.

afternoon tea at talk of tea brighton

Unlike the extensive tea menu, the food on offer is more simple. You can pop in for a sandwich or a slice of cake for just a few pounds or have the full afternoon tea with a choice of sandwiches, scones and a slice of cake.

Cake gets a big shout out. They are made in-house and are all gluten free, not that you'd know it. The enormous slices of chocolate & raspberry and carrot cake were both super light. I sometimes find gluten free options quite cloying and dense but these were anything but. And although they don't cater for vegans, you can call in advance and they will make something specially.

scones at talk of tea brighton

I would have liked the scones to have more height but they were pleasant and sandwiches simple but delicious enough. They could probably tweak it here and there—cut the crusts off and the like—but this is all very relaxed and everything feels about right. This is a pleasant afternoon tea that won't be breaking any banks (£10.95 for 1 person or £19.95 for 2 people).

Being so close to town it's a handy one to know about for a pit shop and quick bite or a lingering tea-fuelled lunch with the ladies. And with piles of games, magazines and books, it's the place to spend some time if you have it. They are so friendly here and welcomed my two crumb making kids but I think it's not the best place for a meet up with the children in tow if they are very young due to the size of the place, lack of highchairs etc. Look, before I had kids, I wouldn't have been keen to have my quiet afternoon tea hijacked by some squarking little ones. Even though I could take my 4 year old boy confidently to a fine dining restaurant for a 3 hour meal, well the 18 month old girl is cut from a different cloth! 

Now more than ever with the increase of the chain restaurants and coffee shops in the city, we should really make the effort to celebrate and support our independent places, as after all, they are what makes Brighton Brighton.

talkoftea.co.uk
26 Spring St
Brighton BN1 3EF

I was invited to review Talk of Tea, words and thoughts, as ever, are my own. 
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No, not the name given to fans of the kale peddling blog by Gwenith Paltrow, Goupie is in fact very much on the naughtier side of the food spectrum.  A family recipe that has been made by Janet Simpson’s family for over 50 years, it is essentially a very posh puffed rice treat available in some really nice flavour combinations like Cherry and Almond, White Lavender or Lemon Meringue. 


The base is chewy and crunchy and who doesn't like that? They say "devilishly moreish" and I'll have to agree. Both packs lasted 48 hours in the home and I think that was being reserved. 


The warming cardamon version I tried was really nice flavour with a fine white chocolate topping. I love all things coffee too so the Espresso Goupie with dark Belgian chocolate and Arabica coffee beans was right up my street. 


And can we talk about the packaging? How gorgeous is it? I love it when some time and effort has really been invested in compelling packaging and they have been shortlisted for the UK packaging Awards this year too. The unusual format and quality finish would make this a really nice gift for someone. 

If you love sweet treats and want something different, definitely pick some up. Locally you can get them in Mulberrys, Bolney vineyard or Grasmere in Hove. Or online of course at goupie.co.uk


I was sent these products for review. Words and thoughts, as always, my own.
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I don't think I've ever been so happy to see a business refresh their identity. Honestly, I absolutely despised the mouthful name and the branding of Chocaffinitea. The name set my teeth on edge and logo looked like a 70s technology TV program for heaven's sake. It's the one thing that actually put me off coming for so long!  I just had in my mind that the products would be as amateurish and unrefined as the outside aesthetic was. Which, as it turns out, is not the case. Anyway, it has been happily renamed Black Mocha with a far less quirky look.



Once inside, you'll find one of Brighton's best single origin chocolate shops with a large selection of bars from quality brands like Marou, Roccoco and the slightly bonkers Lobooko. The glorious packaging alone of all the bars is an absolute feast. They also sell Green Valley honey with some really unusual flavours.

Now, I never thought I'd be saying this but I am fully on board this vegan/raw/gluten free cake train. Not that I have any dietary requirements, just that I find them delicious and nutritious, packed full of energy boosting nuts, seeds and fruits. I think it's a textural thing too, I just find them far more interesting, and often less sweet, than a plain old slab of carrot cake. I even have a constant supply of homemade raw cacao energy balls in my fridge. Yes really.



There is always a good selection on offer and the display is really attractive; vegan salted peanut chocolate "snickers" slices, dairy free cheesecakes, chocolate cashew slices, flapjacks, cookies and brownies. It's all here.



I tried a few things now and loved them all. The vegan key lime cheesecake was particularly gorgeous. Funnily enough, I hate traditional cheesecakes but the silkiness of vegan versions I adore.

Although Brighton has a love affair with Small Batch coffee, it's good to have a change and they serve Monmouth brand here along with a large selection of Tea Studio blends. The single origin hot chocolate here is also remarkable. If you try noting else, try this. You will never catch me with one of those creamy, pumpkin spiced seasonal monstrosities from the coffee chains so this hot chocolate is as close as I get to an indulgent sweet drink. I've not had a hot chocolate like it before, full of flavour with a grown up savoury undertone.

But if you really don't have a sweet tooth they also have soups, quiches, salads and sandwiches that look fresh and inviting as well as toasted granola breakfast pots so it's a really useful address to have for an all day drop in.

Also as there is a high proportion of self employed people in this city there is a really useful working space upstairs too although at the time of writing the plugs were broken!


Black Mocha
103 Gloucester Road
Brighton BN1 4AP
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I don't often post baking recipes and I don't really do pretty baking either, but these sweet vanilla cupcakes are rather simple to make (my kind of baking) and are on the right side of girly cuteness. AND it's National Cupcake Week you know. Now, I think enough time has passed that cupcakes are ok again. Remember a few years ago when cupcakes were everywhere and piled high American style with nauseating amounts of frosting? I'm seeing more sensible versions now that you do want to eat thank goodness. ("Cake pops" will never be ok in my book though.)

I made these ones for a 1 year old's party as her middle name is Rose but didn't want anything too kiddy. These would be welcome at girly gatherings, tea parties or even wedding cake material. The roses are not difficult to make once you have the hang of them.

Ingredient quality really makes difference to baking. I've experimented with lots of butters and you can tell the difference - buy the best! The white eggs* here are from The Happy Egg Co. whose ethos I like and these are laid by white hens. They have a larger yolk than normal so fabulous for baking with. I also wouldn't be without my beloved OXO Good Grips tools to help me either. You can read more about my product reviews here but they are my go-to for everyday, affordable kitchenware.


Here I'm testing the sturdy mixing bowl* which is exactly what I want; 1. stainless steel, 2. non slip, 3. well weighted. It's perfect and the white exterior is modern and good looking for display (great for speedy chilling too). I was also testing the decorating set but had the rose decoration in mind. I've never got on well with icing kits, either the simple snipped bags or those impossible traditional metal plungers that spew icing out of the sides. The OXO 4 Piece Baker’s Silicone Decorating Bottle Kit* may look a bit bonkers but it was so easy to use and handle. No spills or mess either. The compact nature is a bonus as everything can be stored inside. Even after a quick test, I know I'll be packing my old icing kits off to the charity shop in the morning.

Makes 10 cupcakes

Ingredients
125g Caster sugar
125g Unsalted butter, room temperature
125g Self-raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
2 eggs, room temperature
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 tbsp milk

Method
Pre-heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Line a muffin tin with 10 muffin cases.

Beat together all of the cake ingredients for a couple of minutes until you have a smooth batter. Divide between the muffin cases and bake for about 15 minutes, until risen and golden. Remove from the oven and cool completely.

For the decoration

Ingredients
Ready to roll icing (Half a standard 1kg pack or 500g pack)
Icing sugar
Red and green colouring paste
Silver dagrees/sugar balls (I like the soft ones you can get now)
Green edible glitter

Method
Cut a third of the icing off and reserve. Dust the work surface lightly with icing sugar and roll the larger icing block out thinly, flipping and turning to ensure it doesn't stick. it needs to only be about 3mm thick. Using the round cookie cutter that is a little bit smaller than the finished cupcake, cut 10 circles.

Cut a third off the smaller piece of reserved icing. Put a few drops of red colouring onto the larger piece and a few drops of the green into the smaller piece. Go easy as you want a soft pastel colour. Work the colour into each icing until you have a smooth, even colour. Chill this for a little while if it has gone too soft with the heat of your hands.

Once ready, lightly dust the worktop with a little icing sugar and roll each colour to around 2.5mm thick. For the rose colour cut into thin strips about 10mm tall and 100mm wide. Roll these up slightly unevenly to form the look of a rose. Slightly pinch the bottom to form a "v" shape and to hold it all together. Trim the end point so your rose sits on a flat surface. Repeat until you have 10.

Cut the green icing into 10 small leaf shapes then using a blunt knife, press lightly to form the central vein. Tip a little of the glitter onto a plate and lightly press each leaf into it.

Pour cold water into a small glass. Dip a pastry brush in an remove excess water with some kitchen roll. Lightly paint the underside of the white icing round and press centrally on top of the cupcake. Using a small clean, unused artist paintbrush, dampen the underside of each green leaf and apply slightly off centre to each cupcake. Repeat with the base of each rose and stick centrally. Apply a single silver dagree.







*I was sent the products for review. Words and content, as always, are my own.
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Hands down the best patisserie in Brighton, possibly the whole South East, is Julien Plumart. Save that Eurostar ticket money and spend it here at this slice of France. I've raved about the boutique a lot on this blog but now they are serving afternoon teas on glossy tiered stands which of course needed some investigating.

You won't be getting scones and jam here though and you won't miss them either. Along with finger sandwiches, tiny, savoury filled, light brioche buns, ice cream and warm brownies you can choose a selection from their famous macaron and one of the intricate cakes. 


They had just that day won a Taste Award for the Berries and Violet macaron (well deserved) and I teamed that with Black Forest and Raspberry flavours. The macaron are really gorgeously light and crisp, with an intensely flavoured filling. There are always classic flavours to choose from like Pistachio or Rose to more experimental ones like Yuzu & Black Current Pepper. Prepare to stand in front of all the flavours for a while and painfully choose just three. 


Another hard task is choosing from the glossy jewelled cakes but you're practically guaranteed a good one. I've had plenty of these over the years and NEVER once disliked anything and I don't even have a sweet tooth. Although I love the Raspberry Delice and Royal Crunchy Choc, I settled for an unusual Earl Grey and Mandarin dome. There's always an array of textures to these cakes; crisp chocolate coatings, soaked sponges, super-light mousse and incredible decoration. Utterly decadent, technically spot on and virtually impossible to create at home (I'm happy to get a decent lemon drizzle down though. Baker, I am not.) 



The loose leaf teas are from The Rare Tea Company and served in beautiful clear glass teapots which look very pretty. There is a decent selection and the leaves are sourced direct from select independent farms. 

Afternoon tea for two people is £29 which when you consider the quality of everything, is very good value. Julien Plumart himself is still very much in the kitchen crafting the products with a small team so standards have not slipped in the slightest. 

Oh and by the way, they have also recently renovated the top floor dining space. Handy if you are planning a tasteful hen dos or small party. 

Julien Plumart
Duke Street, Brighton

I was invited to review. Words and thoughts, as always, are my own.

Also see my updated post for the best places in Brighton for afternoon tea! http://www.thegraphicfoodie.co.uk/2014/05/gf-guides-best-afternoon-tea-in-brighton.html


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What can you possibly say about the cakes of Brighton's Victoria Watkin-Jones? Sometimes an image is all you need. 


Just beautiful aren't they? I've featured Victoria's cakes creations before and here she is again with her festive additions. You may as well put the dried fruit packaging down right this second right? She's got such an eye for clean, modern style that somehow isn't stark or cold, or you think you've seen anywhere else before.

And after tasting a huge range of them last time, I can vouch that they taste as good as they look and you can save yourself the hassle of the Christmas centrepiece with one of these beauties or gift someone you REALLY like.

Victoria can make macaron, cookies, layer cakes topped with profiteroles and fruit, iced Christmas cakes, individual fondant iced cakes with Christmas decoration or seasonal cupcakes.

As always, her cakes are decorated in small batches with fresh ingredients (with local produce where possible) and everything from the toppings to all fillings is homemade.

Prices vary from £7 for an individual fondant iced cake with Christmas decoration and buttercream to £60 for the larger cakes.

Details are for the Brighton and area only but for other pricing/order sizes contact Victoria Made.

 http://www.victoriamade.com or call 07971427998.





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Brighton has had such a ressurgance of quality baked goods that would make Atkins roll over in his grave. Carbaholics like me are positively rejoicing though!

Flour Pot Bakery has been supplying local stores and restaurants with their breads for a while but they now have their own café and bread shop in the North Laine. And a beautiful store it is too. The interior is everything a contemporary bakery should be, with gorgeous industrial copper lighting, cool marble worktops and a unique point of sale unit for the breads. It's predominantly black and white and just the right side of the artisan hipster design trend.



There are just a few seats inside and personally I would have reduced the imposing bar to accommodate more tables, especially in the winter months where their outside seating will be impractical. But for now, it's a good place to perch for morning pastries or a quick lunch although the narrow pavement is entertaining when the delivery lorries pass.

They also don't seem to have a complete website which in this day and age (and the fact they have such a solid brand and beautiful fit out) is nothing short of insanity. Even a single page with opening times and address would do them good, for flapjacks sake. Their Facebook page is better if you can be bothered to navigate through posts to find opening times; 8am until 7pm (9am - 6pm on Sundays, you're welcome.

But hey, if you manage to negotiate the opening times and grab a prized seat then it's well worth a visit. From the small selection of daily treats, I tasted quite possibly the lightest polenta cake on the planet. I thought the one I make was pretty darn good but this was, as it pains me to say, better. Laden with finely ground almonds and drenched in citrus sugar syrup, it was topped with the most beautiful emerald pistachios. You can wash down your cakes and pastries with (obligatory for Brighton) Small Batch coffee.






For lunch there could be more of an offering of sandwiches with just a couple to choose from, but they obviously use their own bread and rolls which is a bonus. The flatbreads didn't really appeal as there is something very off-putting about dried melted cheese. The chunky sausage rolls looked impressive and my dining partner liked his lamb Moroccan inspired version although I didn't get a chance to try it.



I also swung by a week or so later after work to pick up a couple of their loaves; a classic ciabatta and a rustic. Although service was shaky, the bread was decent. The ciabatta had that slightly plastic texture to the dough you'd expect and was fully aerated. The crust was absolutely delicious too. I gifted the rustic to my parents and they said it was excellent, and they are even fussier about real bread than I am. At around £1.80-£3.00 depending on the size of loaf, it isn't too bad a cost to pay for the real deal.



I'm really pleased that Flour Pot Bakery has taken the leap to their own cafe and shop, although the service could do with sharpening up, on three visits there was some sort of niggle or issue but their product is great, which is the main thing.

Flour Pot Bakery
40 Sydney Street
Brighton
BN1 4EP
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There are not many restaurants that could be classed as a Brighton institution but English's of Brighton is most definitely one of the small handful. It has existed in the same location since 1945, with a much older fish restaurant on the same premises from the late 1800s. You can even still see the original embossed brass plate on the outside.


Sitting at the oyster bar, it could be any era really, I doubt much has changed looking at the faded framed pictures on the wall, the charmingly worn print on the plates and handwritten old menu. And I love it, few places could exude this type of eccentric atmosphere, and one that cannot be created unless it had been seasoned in place over decades. I only regret not having visited sooner, thinking this was a quaint old place for tourists and the over 60s, the only people that seem to appreciate velour seating.

I suppose I have also been seduced to frequent the handful of other good fish restaurants with their neue lux surroundings (Riddle and Finns) or exciting and accomplished cooking (Little Fish Market).

So before we go ahead, here is my secret. Seafood is the only thing I dislike eating and one mollusc in particular, the oyster. I don't believe that you should "hate" any food (microchips and frozen pizza aside) so have always been disappointed with myself for not enjoying seafood, especially as Mr. GF can devour huge platters of the stuff like a seal. I feel like I have failed as a food appreciator as oysters are so revered, but I do try, and try again in hope.

So the invitation for an education in oysters at English's was exactly the ticket I needed to cure my palette. Oh, and the inclusion of champagne may have been a sweetener too. I KNOW I like that thank you very much.

We were hosted by Jonathan Speirs who has been the head Oyster Shucker at English's for over 10 years and for more than 30 in the industry. Unremarkably, he knows a thing or hundred about oysters. First, we were given a selection of cooked oysters, which I have never tried before, a good move rather than going in hard with raw ones.


Surprisingly, I liked them. The toppings (tempura with a dipping sauce, samphire and hollandaise and and the classic thermidor style) were a welcome taste distraction and cooking eliminated the squeamish qualities of the slippery, slimy raw oyster. Instead was a soft, mild little sea pillow with enough flavour to shine through the other flavours.


Next came the big boys and I will admit I wasn't exactly rubbing my hands together with glee. What was interesting is that we were given a selection of rock oyster varieties and we were told to eat them in a certain order, much like a cheese board based on strength. The Jersey oysters slipped down ok. They were quite firm and mild. I wouldn't say I was quite there with the love but I felt like I was finding my feet. Next were Lindisfarne oysters, a middle ground oyster. Again, I ate these with no issue. The only ones I did struggle with were the Mersea ones, which were so soft and creamy and possibly one texture of slippery too far. One for the oyster pros amongst you.

People say they taste of the sea, and I can't add much more to that. If you like them, you like them I guess and if you want to explore or know more about them, pull up a stool here and chat to the staff. I was happy to learn a little more, what affects the taste like the depth and temperature of the water and so on. Oysters, at the very least, are interesting little creatures.


But oysters are not the only thing on the menu at English's. Trying the sharing plates of sea treats like scallop cerviche, octopus carpaccio, mackerel samosa and their own home hay smoked tuna and salmon made me want to come back for more of the main courses.

Prices, as with most good seafood restaurants, are toward the more premium end, but as the price reflects the variety of what you are eating it all depends on what you order from mackerel fillets and mussels to lobsters, dover sole and brill. Some fish is just wildly expensive.

There is always a place in my heart for a proper restaurant. The more I see of stylised food trends, the more I seem to crave smart service and tablecloths. I want to be treated when I dine and English's is most definitely a special spot indeed, whether you are perched up at the bar, inside admiring the murals or outside in the bustling atmosphere of the square.

English's of Brighton
29- 31 East Street
Brighton BN1 1HL


I was a guest of English's.

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The Graphic Foodie

About Me

With a love of my home town, this blog lists frequently updated Brighton restaurant reviews for both Brightonians and visitors to navigate to all the best food spots in the city. Although the focus is on our fantastic local independent restaurants, you can also discover selected cafes, supper clubs and pop-up restaurants. In the mix are also my kitchen experiments and family recipes from the Abruzzo region of Italy, food-related design, product reviews and book recommendations.

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