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The Graphic Foodie | Brighton Food Blog & Restaurant Reviews


Easy Tiger is one of Brighton's latest successful pub kitchen pop ups, and we have quite a few to choose from to be honest. I don't think any Brightonian will put up with your average pub grub any more; we're spoilt rotten and the only way is up - eradicating every frozen chicken goujon in the city by 2025.

Still, I have to say it does take a bit to drag me from the dining comfort of restaurants, old woman I am. But headed up by chef Kanthi Kiran Thamma this is one to take particular note of. Kanthi, formerly of Curry Leaf Cafe, is quite possibly one of the most passionate chefs for all things Indian you'll ever meet. The man practically levitates when talking his craft, even orchestrating his own chef-led food tour, The Spice Circuit.

The Hampton has had a full makeover from the same team behind the successful The Pond. A superb selection of small brewery beers, cool interiors, great design (the murals by See Creatures are ridiculously brilliant) and really good food. If you haven't had the bao buns at The Pond, where the hell have you been? Their eye for creating modern pubs for the modern market and demands, whilst retaining an authenticity of what the pub stands for is unparallelled. 

Easy Tiger food is inspired by street food and rustic dishes served in southern Indian Toddy Shops - bars selling fermented coconut palm sap and brutally hot food to encourage more drinking. But all we know is that spicy food and beer go hand in hand and the menu has been tailored for the pub environment very well. With no coconut palm sap on offer (actually I didn't check) a pint of local Burning Sky Arise did the trick nicely.



You could easily just upscale your pub snacks here with some marsala chips or Peanut Pakodi - fried peanuts in a spiced batter or there are some filled Ceylon parotta (an Indian style wrap) that would make an ideal lunch on the fly.



A toss up between the KFC (Keralan Fried Chicken) was the Tandoori Tangdi which didn't disappoint. Grilled pieces of tandoori spiced marinated chicken leg had a coating so crisp, that I'm surprised it wasn't fried. There was an optimum level of heat for the spice layers to come through which is the smart way to do spicy. This was excellent chicken to maybe rival Bincho Yakatori for the best in town.

Really enjoyable was the Gobi Manchurian, a dish of cauliflower pieces in a light batter, deep fried and slathered in a soy, ginger, garlic, and chilli sauce. If you thought cauliflower was boring, you haven't tried this.


Of the big dishes, a vegan Biriyani or Keralan vegetable stew are your bets, but for the meat eaters there's Jaffna Lamb Curry, inspired by Kanthi's trip to Sri Lanka. The Jaffna spice mix lends itself to rich, deep favours; coriander and cumin seeds form the base with sweet notes from cinnamon and cardamon, absolutely perfect with the slow-cooked lamb. You can order rice but this came with Malabar parathas, another Indian flat bread, pineapple chutney and a sour raita.



They don't over-look the details here. The pickles, chutneys and accompaniments really make the dishes, not least when ordering poppadoms - worth ordering for the mango and coriander and pea, mint and coconut chutneys alone.

The food was unquestionably good, my only negative was that foods were served on environmentally friendly plates and bowls made from some sort of plant or leaf. Pretty and far from the common paper plate, but they started to go soggy toward the end of the meal. Also, is there anything more environmentally friendly than washing up the damn plate? 

Still, the menu offers so much more that I want to try and if you're bored of the traditional pub Sunday roast, then this is just the ticket.



Easy Tiger Brighton
Easy Tiger at The Hampton
57 Upper North Street
Brighton BN1 3FH
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The Urchin has been on my radar a while, with their unique shellfish based menu (for a pub around these parts) and a brilliant selection of craft beer. I've probably not yet been because there's enough to keep me busy east of Palmeira Square these days, I've got a lot on my plate, literally. However, I'm really interested in the alternative Sunday roast. As lovely as a classic roast is, we're seeing more options cropping up the city's pubs and the former isn't something I would dine out for, seeing is very much as a family meal at home. There are people doing the roast so well here, and there is of course a huge demand still, but variety is the spice and all.

The Urchin serve up an impressive looking paella on the Sunday and that's enough for me to foot the 3.5 mile walk in the sunshine to work an appetite up for.



It is particularly gorgeous for a pub. Muted greys and a contemporary nautical influence all around, it feels very much at home here by the sea and has a lovely garden area. You'll see the enormous selection of craft beer by the bar, thoughtfully placed where you can grab the bottles and have a good look before deciding.



For me my visit was the day after the one before so some bloody Marys were in order, swiftly followed by rock oysters and salt and pepper squid, cut on the long side. This gave great mouth feel (I still have not found a better way to describe that, it makes me cringe) rather than biting into rings. Regardless, the squid was tender and the coating perfectly crisp.



My wibbly scallops along with the coral, served simply with lemon and chives made them a masterpiece of themselves. Normally, I shy away from the coral, I actually don't like the gnarly end of seafood in general, but I ate the lot, cooked so the texture was perfect and the butter and citrus enhanced the clean sweetness of hero ingredient.

I also appreciated a decent portion of bread, from our wonderful Flour Pot Bakery, served in large wedges with either balsamic and oil or butter.



Onto the main show though, the paella, was a visual treat, uncovered at the table for a bit of theatre. Under the foil hid a colourful display of king prawns, mussels and cleverly, the tips of the squid, which looked lovely and a smart avoidance of food waste. The rice had the ideal bite and for me, the essential bit of a paella is the crisp edges, which luckily, this didn't lack. I would have like a little more piquant hit from smoked paprika and wedges of lemon to pep up the dish but minor points, it was still very enjoyable. The prawns were juicy and meaty; glorious to shell and get stuck in with. The sun was shining and this could not have been a more perfect dish for the day.

For desserts there is just a cheese board and a posset and they don't seem to "do" dessert here. No matter as this was one leg of a Hove food safari for me but you could end the meal with a dessert beer I'm sure they'd have like a rich, chocolatey porter.



Although, I'd come here specifically for the paella, the specials board read like a treat; langoustine ramen, goan style prawns, whole lobster and everyone around me seemed to be tucking into bowls of crab claw, prawn and chorizo gumbo eliciting a hard pang of food envy from me. Clearly I need to return to make a bigger dent in the menu.

The Urchin is a stylish pub but one with real substance in its catalogue of interesting beers and staying true to their vision with the food, rather than falling victim to the pub catch-all menu.



The Urchin
15-17 Belfast Street
Hove 
BN3 3YS

I dined as a guest of The Urchin. Words and thoughts, as always, my own.
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brisket bao bun at the Pond pub Brighton

Call me an old woman but I'm typically not a fan of dining in pubs (restaurant-pubs aside). I just find it so uncomfortable! Piling winter coats on tiny bar stools, cramped around little tables and typically cheek to jowl with the next table. Then there's elbowing away the resident pub dog's nose from my plate. It's just not my style.

But sometimes you just can't ignore the Instagram shots of gorgeous looking food any longer.

And I've become a big fan of The Pond actually, probably due to my new interest in beer, they always seem to have something on that I absolutely love. Plus it's had a really nice makeover featuring illustrated murals from local design studio See Creatures and doesn't THAT hague blue shade make everything better?

Before their residency at The Pond, Baby Bao had, and still do I believe, a regular Friday spot at  Street Diner. Fitting as it's, well, street food.

Where some have tried a bit too hard with pub food or gone concept hard, it's often failed. Somehow, the Taiwanese bao bun concept just seems to work well here. Affordable, delicious, vibrant and easily scalable if you want a quick bite or a full meal.

You can either grab a single or selection of the filled buns and there's the option of some really interesting sides. They cater particularly well for vegetarian and vegan diets here, and are exclusively meat free and vegan on Mondays with bao fillings like mushroom bulgogi and seitan brisket. On Sunday, which is when I visited, they offer either meat or vegan Bo Saam sharing platters.

Bo saam sharing platter at the Pond pub Brighton

This is such an interactive fun meal and a perfect alternative to the Sunday Roast. We ordered the meat option and you get classic pork belly, brisket and crispy chicken thighs. Visually it's impressive and full of colour.

The steamed bao buns themselves are beautifully puffy and super light. You can then build your own filling from the platter of meats, pickled veg and sauces, wrapping remaining fillings with the crisp little gem leaves. Additional bao buns are available to order separately if you are ravenous but two were perfect for me.

Bo saam sharing platter at the pond pub Brighton

Yup. Crunchy, spicy, sweet, salty, savoury and sour - it has it all going on. So many flavours and textures that is a joy to eat. My favourite was the brisket but if you like melting, fatty cuts then the pork belly is for you.

The kimchi could have packed a bigger punch but was still enjoyable and the sauces varied and all good. And, trust me, you'll want to sprinkle the crushed peanut powder on EVERYTHING. 

Blackberry milkshake IPA craft beer at the Pond Brighton

On tap was the Blackberry Milkshake IPA from Wylam and Northern Monk - probably the girliest beer in the world, a beautiful blush pink and crazily drinkable; fruity but softly bitter. Sadly we got the end of the keg otherwise I would have indulged in another three. I doubt they'll still have that on but every time I've popped in there's been something delicious; a blueberry stout that was pure dessert in a glass or Dark Star's Creme Brulee.

The bao meat sharing plate was £28 for two or £14 for one. Individual buns are around the £5 and sides £4 so nothing is going to break the bank here.

I didn't think to order dessert but now seeing a few shots of the donut bao filled with either matcha ice cream or peanut butter ice cream and jam gives me the weak excuse to return very, very soon.

Baby Bao manu at The pond pub brighton

The Pond
49 Gloucester Rd
Brighton

Follow Baby Bao @babybaouk
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confit duck at The Jolly Poacher pub in Brighton

I have been meaning to get out to the The Jolly Poacher—a neighbourhood food pub on Ditchling Road—since they opened in 2012, particularly as they are related to the acclaimed Jolly Sportsman in East Chiltington. So it was with some serious anticipation that I finally made it through the door.

The space is charming and pleasant in many ways, far brighter and modern than I was expecting, yet it had a strange feel that I couldn't quite place. Saying that I don't tend to dine in pubs often, so maybe I wasn't at home as most people would feel in the environment. Their imposing gold coffee machine is quite something though - topped with a gold falcon, it looked like something out of Charlie and the Chocolate factory. Who doesn't like a bit of quirk? 

It's a small point but the menu was peppered with spelling mistakes (probably much like this post before anyone calls me out on it). I think places that promise quality like this need to get the details right and the menu read is the first taste of the dining experience. Anyway, the menu was also full of winter warmers that had been given a decadent twist; pickled quail with spiced cauliflower, scorched corn and jalepeno croquettes with oysters, pork belly with black pudding and chorizo.

Goose liver parfait at The Jolly Poacher pub in Brighton

I finally settled on the "goose liver" parfait (a nice way of avoiding the f word), £7.50. I really love a silky, smooth pate and this didn't disappoint. The sweet wine jelly around the plate gave a welcome floral and acidic contrast to the parfait and the toasted bricohe added sweetness. Perfectly balanced and incredibly pleasant to eat, but as usual the toast was long gone before I had finished the parfait so I had to gobble it up with the salad garnish. I'm starting to think Busby & Wilds in Kemptown is the ONLY restaurant in the world to get the toast/pate balance right.

Crab fritters at The Jolly Poacher pub in Brighton

Rosie's thai spiced crab fritters (£7.50) were a little wet in the middle despite the perfectly crisp crumb coating. I'm not sure what they lacked exactly - she's not the sort of girl you'd want to steal too much food from to find out.

A confit duck leg (£16.50) is exactly what I wanted on a chilly night. The leg itself was tender but often needs a sauce as it can be a bit dry, which I suppose is why they often serve it with a bean stew. Here it was presented with a gorgeous, slightly spiced carrot and orange puree, but it needed far more of it along with more than the tiny trickle of jus on the edge of the plate. The herbed potato croquette made the dish more substantial and as much as I love cavolo nero, I was a bit miffed it didn't come with the chicory as advertised (and no mention of the change either at ordering).

Beef cheek at The Jolly Poacher pub in Brighton

The beef cheek (£19.50) was meltingly soft and served with a battered oyster making the dish more impressive. As per my main though, Rosie wasn't overly excited by it.

I rarely want a dessert but crave one when I haven't enjoyed my meal as much as I had hoped. Saying that there was nothing that took my fancy, the desserts included a crumble, creme brulee and cheeses. The people next to us ordered the chocolate torte which was the tiniest of slithers and at £8.50 a pop, I didn't think was worth the hit. 

If you live locally then I would say The Jolly Poacher is well worth a shot, certainly for the £17 set menu or the Sunday roast that Rosie (who has done her homework and some) rated quite highly. But otherwise I'm not sure a trip across town is worth the effort. Despite being of a good level food wise, it's jolly expensive for sure and there are plenty of other places in Brighton your money might be better spent.

The Jolly Poacher
100 Ditchling Rd
Brighton

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I discovered Little Blue Smokehouse's food at Street Diner and I thought they were great with their pulled pork and brisket filled rolls, making pretty much everything from scratch from the sauces to the pickles. They cure, brine, dry rub and smoke, going the extra mile for their food and I tip my hat to them for it.   

And as it turns out their food translates very well into the pub environment unlike some street food which should remain firmly kerb side. Pint of beer and squidball? No ta.

I know I don't often eat or post about pub food but honestly this is one of the most exciting menus I've seen recently, restaurant or not. It's full of everything you really want to eat; smoked confit duck hash, pulled pork rolls, brisket chilli, mac and cheese bites with bacon jam, smoked fish chowder and even the bread comes with BBQ butter and BBQ gravy dripping. Clearly a lot of time and love has gone into crafting this menu.

Little Blue Smokehouse transforms meat cuts (as well as fish and vegetables) into something richer, stickier, succulent and intense through their processes. This is dig in, filthily good food and the depth of flavour is fantastic.

Here is a picture of the smoked and beer braised ox cheeks which we should all pause and admire for a few moments:


As you can imagine, these melted away under the fork and I loved the ham hock greens to accompany them which were almost as good as the cheeks. The silky mash was decent restaurant level too. Bring on the snow this winter because as soon as I see the first flake, I'm racing down for this again.


Kimchi has been a really popular trend lately and these fries would make good beer munchies alone. They also had an unexpected sweetened soy sauce under them which I hadn't seen before and worked really well. 



We also tried some of the smaller dishes; deep fried pickles with chipotle aioli, sticky Korean chicken wings and a really good charred wedge salad, made theirs with buttermilk ranch dressing and crispy smoked onions. It's good they have given diners and drinkers the option to pick and mix or snack from the small plates or have a filling meal with an all day pub menu. 

Stand out was the smoked pigs head fritters, tender to the bite and not as grizzly as you may expect. The accompanyng piccalilli was the perfectly sharp contrast to the mellow smoke. I think this could prove to be one of their signature dishes actually. I also appreciated that each dish owned their own sauces. So many lazy pub foods come served with a utilitarian dipping pot of something, so if you go down the small plate route then it all feels very mediocre.

The food is matched well by the pub's selection of craft beer but you could wash down this hearty food with some quite delicate cocktails, made with their own infused Sipsmith gin. We tried the Melotini which was fresh and feminine and probably quite a hilarious choice for the bolshy food but beer drinker I will never be. 

The Seven Stars is yet another renovation from Indigo pub group who are seemingly taking over every pub in Brighton. They do have a winning formula though and are attracting some very good kitchen takeovers (some not so good!) but it is a shame to see some individuality being stripped from our local boozers. Personally, I'm not sure how much I want to see MeatLiquoresque caged booths and graffiti in a pub, but that's just me.

There's some pretty mad ideas in pub dining at the moment but LBS have made their menu interesting and enticing without resorting to weird concepts or tacky presentation. An absolute must try.



http://sevenstarsbrighton.pub/

I was invited to review. Words and thoughts, as always, are my own.
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It's been so long since I visited La Choza, the people who brought the sort of Mexican food I actually want to eat to Brighton. Formally, the offering was absolutely terrible and you'd only go for a stodgy tex-mex stomach liner prior to your big night out.

But up rocked La Choza in all of its shocking pink glory and we loved it.  The food was fresher, the flavours vibrant and the environment was fun. Service was a bit hit and miss and quite slow though and the last few times I tried to fit in a visit during a work lunch, my food would turn up an indigestion inducing 10 minutes before I had to rush back to my desk.

So yes, its been a while but then this week has seen me visit twice, once at the original restaurant and my first trip to the Hare and Hounds site (don't mention it as the new Shoreditch, don't mention it as the new Shoreditch, don't...)



My standard order was always the burrito with 14-hour pulled pork and hot sauce. A feed and a half. But time to diversify, so I chose the soft corn taco’s with chicken and their homemade chorizo. This was a lighter, fresher choice and I was very pleased with it. There was plenty of crunch from the shredded radish and the chicken was juicy and packed with flavour. The house chorizo was crumbled and spiced beautifully, probably very different in texture to what most would expect from it. I'm also a total chilli head so appreciated all of the fresh slices over it as well as the crunchy side salad.



My friend had the awesome street food salad which is a citrus and heat heavy with plenty of crunch and interest. There are also some pretty good specials to look out for like mackerel, seabass, mutton, goat and even cactus.

We did make an almost embarrassing point of needing our order within the hour and food arrived with a good leisurely half hour to enjoy. The staff were particularly lovely that day actually, engaging and fun.

A few days later I popped over to the Hare and Hounds which houses the La Choza pop up kitchen. This time I went for their burrito bowl which was layered with refried beans, green rice, cheese and sour cream. I topped this with the slow cooked beef.



This time the food turned up almost alarmingly quickly. I think I managed to pay, take a photo of the sign and sat down as the first of the plates turned up. I was less enamoured with the burrito bowl here, just mainly for the fact that the cheese had been melted into a congealed, greasy single layer which acted as a lid to the rest of the ingredients underneath. I imagine Mr. Microwave was at play here. Shame as the rest was good. The meats seem to be what La Choza really pin down well, the beef had a lot of spice, not just from gratuitous heat, but with subtle undertones of mellow spice and herbs.

We also ordered a bowl of nachos which I imagine go down a treat with the drinkers in the pub at munchie o'clock.

I'm glad I remembered how much I like La Choza. Although I may stick to the original venue (but eating in pubs is not really my thing and hell, the restaurant looks like a joyous fluro pinata on overdrive - I love it), the food is sunny, uplifting and invigorating. I sure won't be leaving it so long until my next trip.

http://www.lachoza.co.uk/

Main Restaurant:
36 Gloucester Rd,
Brighton, BN1 4AQ

Hare and Hounds:
London Road
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The Graphic Foodie

About Me

With a love of my home town, this blog lists frequently updated Brighton restaurant reviews for both Brightonians and visitors to navigate to all the best food spots in the city. Although the focus is on our fantastic local independent restaurants, you can also discover selected cafes, supper clubs and pop-up restaurants. In the mix are also my kitchen experiments and family recipes from the Abruzzo region of Italy, food-related design, product reviews and book recommendations.

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