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The Graphic Foodie | Brighton Food Blog & Restaurant Reviews


I adore knives. Not in a stabby way (at ease ex-husband), but as kitchen kit goes for any keen cook, along with your pans, your knife set is essential and the first area I invested in after replacing all the budget starter home items. Look after them, and they will see you right for a very long time.

My current knife set is from a brand known for their quality and I’ve been happy with them over the years, but what I have seen an interest in from professional chefs and keen home cooks is a turn towards handmade knives - with beautiful hammered blades and intricate handles made of fine woods.


And look how beautiful this Katto it is - so much character. You have a choice of blade and also wood handle - I opted for the dark Rosewood. This means you need to wash and dry your knives after use but that’s a good habit to have anyway and I’ve always thought wooden handled knives felt better to use.


Katto knives are available in chef’s knives, santokus, utility, bread and just launched - a 7” agile nakiri.

My preference for santoku over chef knives is a few years old now, they just feel better to me and I seem to work quicker than with a heavier chefs knife - the downturned point also lends itself to less mistakes. The 7.5” Katto santoku is no different - it feels well balanced, robust for heavier chopping (coped well with some tough winter squash) but light and sharp enough to thinly slice onions.

I’ve been wanting to use it for a few weeks for reviewing properly and despite being a rather glamorous item looking stunning on my magnetic rack, I’m happy to report that the Katto knife is very much a functional item for the kitchen and I’m sure going to enjoy using mine on the daily.


I haven’t encountered any issues at all with it - you’ll want a smaller knife for more intricate work, but that’s a job for a different knife like their utility, which would make a great pair with this or the chef’s knife.

This is a super knife, from a lovely brand (read the about us page on their site) with a sustainable ethos.

Extra shout out to their presentation and packaging too - loved the coin tradition, the tote and the attention to detail on the brand was a really nice touch. Along with Julie Andrews, brown paper packages tied up with string are also one of MY favourite things, so I appreciated the whole experience of receiving and unboxing the knife.

Watch the unboxing video here.

Also, with the option of personalisation and a nice leather scabbard, I’m sure any keen cook would be happy to find a Katto Knife or two (or a set!) under the Christmas tree this year.


katto.shop


AD I was sent this item for honest review, words and thought my own.
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Gin has had an enormous boost in popularity over the last few years, at all levels of the market, and for all tastes.

But what about vodka? Not a spirit that is so enthusiastically spoken about as a standalone, yet remains a solid staple in cocktails. Enter X MUSE vodka (pronounced tenth muse) - here to challenge this at the premium end of the market. X MUSE has been created with quality and culture in mind and hails from somewhere not necessarily associated with the spirit. You may be thinking of Eastern Europe, particularly Russia, but this vodka is made in Scotland, yes, famous for spirits, but of the Whisky kind.

Taking three years to develop, X MUSE uses water from an ancient aquifer, producing exceptionally pure water, taken from the 100 acre Bennington Estate near Edinburgh amongst a sculptured landscape called Jupiter Artland. (Look at the site and you can see the bottle design influence.)

Photo © Graeme Yuill (cc-by-sa/2.)

And it’s all steeped in art. If you know your Greek mythology, you recall the Nine named Muses who represented the arts. The Tenth Muse had no name and “represents all that is unseen, not captured, defined or understood.” You’ll cleverly find the brand strap line under the waxed bottle top: ‘Plura Latent, Quam Patent’ (more is hidden than revealed). Nice touch.





It’s all rather beautiful, the bottle is stunning sculptural piece that plays with the light, the white wax and textured paper label all exude that feeling that this is not your average bottle of voddy. I doff my hat to the design and marketing teams involved, the brand story is exquisite. You can read more on their website.

But to the taste Fran! X MUSE is the first barley blended vodka, inspired by the Whiskey traditions of Scotland. Two heritage varieties of barley are used; Plumage Archer and Maris Otter, prized for flavour, distilled separately and combined to produced this luxurious, rich, smooth vodka. It’s one of the very few vodkas I would drink neat, and is surprisingly characterful/complex.

Taste profile: Citrus, apple, cereal and pepper.

 


As for a cocktail at home, I didn’t want to diffuse this vodka too much so chose to make a Caipiroska , similar to a caipirinha, but prepared with vodka instead of cachaça.

Ingredients

• 50ml Vodka

• 2 tsp Sugar

• 1 Lime

• 1/2 glassful Crushed Ice

Preparation

1 Cut the lime into wedges and place into shaker.

2 Use a muddler to mix the lime and sugar, not squashing too much or else will become bitter. 

3 Add crushed ice and vodka and shake well.

4 Pour shaker contents into serving glass and garnish with a lime wedge.

5 Garnish with a lime wedge.

You can also see it used in some of these delicious sounding cocktails on their website.

Priced at £60 per 70cl bottle.

https://xmusevodka.com

AD I was sent a bottle for review, words and thought my own.

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I've reviewed a number of recipe boxes over the years with varying success, but on the whole, it's been a positive experience. The ones I've enjoyed the most though are those that bring a cultural edge, transporting me to a far flung edges of the World with unusual ingredients and lesser known recipes.

Aside from the nicely designed presentation (obvs), what made a particularly good first impression with The Kari Club, a new Brighton-based Indian recipe box subscription service, was the cooking sheet taught me a number of things on page one even before I turned on the hob:
  • "Curry" is Anglicised from the Tamil work "Kari" meaning sauce. Noted for the next pub quiz.
  • I've never washed basmati rice but you need to do it quite excessively, and it really makes a difference. Doh!
  • It's best to scrape the skin of the ginger with a spoon rather than peeling/chopping it off it as the sweetest part is just under the skin.
  • Blending cashews is a really easy way to thicken a curry sauce and add silkiness.
Another was that this particular recipe was based on one of Founder, Minesh Angihotri mother's. I think we can watch celebrity chefs on the TV until the cows come home, but you will learn the real gold from mums (my ex-mother-in-law and her Walkers crisps topped tuna bake aside, of course). There are also some well produced videos on their website, pretty much a cook-along, to help.



Recipes are written (when he's not pinching from his mum) by Minesh, who is behind the well regarded Brighton restaurant, Indian Summer. On the menu in this box was Mamaji's Chicken, Sweet Potato & Carro Thoran, rice and chapati.

I really enjoyed making this - I felt I learnt a lot and was slightly more challenging than some other recipe boxes. Not that that's a negative, it's just some don't really feel like cooking, just assembling and are very pedestrian. This showed good use of spicing throughout stages and the bread element was a new thing learned - I won't be impressing any Indian mammas with the shape anytime soon but bye bye supermarket chapati.

It took around an hour too cook with reading through all the ingredients and watching the videos (optional but really helps). I did cook the elements simultaneously but I cook a lot and imagine you'd get a bit flustered if you didn't. But there's no reason not to take it at a more leisurely pace and enjoy the process.

Only negative was the oil quantities you could possibly get wrong - you could tip the "remaining oil" in the thoran but you'd need some for the chapati and rice later on.

The design is really nice; simple, clear and the tips in red throughout the recipe sheets handy. Ingredients were excellent in terms of quality. Meat from Handcross butchers, tomatoes that smelt good and spices far more vibrant than your dusty supermarket versions. The kit came with a full recipe so you are free to recreate it yourself, which I will be certainly doing.

And the best bit. Darn, darn it was delicious. Certainly restaurant grade delicious. Cook it for a crowd and they'll be talking about it for weeks delicious. It was such a rich, luscious and fragrant thing to eat; all the elements worked perfectly. The curry itself was silky and you got a real sense of all the spices. I adored the textural crunch from the thoran and the fact it lightened a heavy meal.



Prices are not too bad for what this is; you can buy a one off for £20 for 1, £25 for 2 and £40 for 4 people and would make an easy dinner party option to impress for the latter - it's restaurant grade food and for £10 a head that's remarkable. You can also go for a monthly subscription.

Portion-wise this two portion box would feed two handsomely or three sensibly, so is very generous. Expect some left overs or next day if you can resist.

Let's face it, it's not a sustainable way to shop everyday, financially or environmentally (even though the packaging was almost entirely recyclable) yet the format of recipe boxes tend to prove popular for a number of reasons. Less food waste in many respects, but number one is that they tend to take you out of your cooking comfort zone, yet guide you through it, and it's pretty exciting unpacking a kit for a meal. Well for me anyway.

Delivery is nationwide. For more information visit thekariclub.com

I was sent a sample box for review. Word and thoughts, as always, my own.
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You can't avoid it. The adverts have started and the music is in the shops. Like it or not, the festive season is well and truly upon us. But it's not all lugging too-big Christmas trees home or dealing with your difficult in-laws. The best bit is the indulgence (oh yeah, and spending time with your loved ones). And how better to achieve indulgence than a Christmas hamper?

But one other thing a hamper must do is impress. Lifting up that wicker lid you need to gasp. No gasp? That ain't no hamper. This one from Harvey Nichols, so big it came in two parts, certainly did the trick. It was so beautifully presented and the internal products were all stylishly packaged. I really appreciate it when a brand see beyond the gold and red of Christmas tradition - this is no less festive, exuding all of the celebration with none of the clichés.



I also adore the black wicker hamper itself too - somehow more luxurious than your standard straw one and beautifully lined in canvas with subtle branding. That will find its way onto my wardrobe for storage, as it would be criminal to dispose of.



The Crowd Pleaser, pictured here and priced at £300, is certainly that, getting the party started with a decent selection of festive cheer, including two bottles of Champagne Brut NV and a bottle each of Malbec, Treixadura, Late Bottled Vintage Port and Gin - they even included four individual bottles of Tonic Water With A Hint Of Cucumber And Lime.

And the rest is perfect for dipping into across the festive break; to healthily supplement gatherings or placed beside the sofa within reaching distance for that gout inducing Christmas film marathon.



Inviting a few friends round for drinks, we tucked into the gin and tonics. I topped the Olive Oil & Rosemary Biscuits with some smoked salmon pate and fried capers (the easiest canapé in the World) and enjoyed them with plump Green Olives stuffed with lemon and almonds and little Cheddar Cheese Nibbles.

The Dark Chocolate Florentines were particularly good and didn't last long! Also in the sweet section were Dark Chocolate Crunch Biscuits (I'm eating one of these right now, naturally), a Giant Chocolate Coin, a beautiful box of assorted Chocolate Truffles, Mint Thins and what has become impossible to miss at Christmas, a Panettone. Luckily they included large tins of Breakfast Tea, Coffee and Hot Chocolate. 

The rest of the hamper included the festive condiments such as Cranberry Sauce, Christmas Mustard and a Date & Orange Chutney. For your toast, Blackberry & Apple Jam and a Grapefruit & Ginger Marmalade that has really got my name on it.

And finally, no Christmas should be without a Christmas Pudding or Brandy Butter, right?

I liked that they also included a lucky dip stick game that looks fun.

This hamper was heaving with produce and even though was at the upper price bracket (and they have bigger ones for those that have been very, very good this year), Harvey Nichols offer a wide range, starting at just £25.

If you are struggling to choose a hamper then check out their personalised hamper guide or view the the full range here.

I was sent a hamper for review. Words and thoughts, as always, my own.
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I've written about Petit Ballon before, a wine subscription service that does things a little bit more beautifully. One of their USPs, along with some very well selected wine of course, is the nicely designed and considered Gazette.

Often with these food and drink services, the informative pieces are poorly executed or purely functional. Any subscription service is a lifestyle luxury so each element should contribute to the overall product experience. Le Petit Ballon's look, as with their ethos, is unstuffy, youthful and approachable - refreshing in the sector - but content is still very much key. Along with the Gazette, which is filled with wine features, recipes, interviews and music pairing (of course!), are some clear and realistic tasting note cards with plenty of useful information such as keeping potential, serving temperatures and food pairing.

Wines are also categorised into sensible and approachable labels, or cheat sheets as they call them. These make complete sense ie. Relaxed Reds are easy to enjoy and light whereas With-it Whites are complex and edgy. No-one needs an education in wine to understand that.

Each month the box is themed and I received the "Around The World" collection.


First up the red - Las Ninas Mapuche 2015

BANG, this was my kinda red. A real Jessica Rabbit red. As vibrant as my favourite MAC lipstick shade, this had spice, richness and heady but very drinkable. We had this with a reasonably spicy Bimimbap dish and it worked well, so well, we finished the bottle for dessert. Delicious.

I particularly liked that this was a collaboration wine with Las Ninas of Chile and Le Petit Ballon themselves so it felt like an exclusive bottle and a labour of love. And of course, the unusual bottle, paper wrapped and covered in graphic Aztec patten did not escape my eye. 

As with all of the wines, you can buy them individually and at £10.90 for a subscriber or £13.08 for a non-subscriber, this is a really well priced red. 

Completely different was the white - Sula Vineyards Sauvignon 2016

This is India's first Sauvignon Blanc to have ever been made which was interesting in itself. We took it to a friend's dinner party as it was a bit of a talking point (pretending to be wine buffs much?) and although we were dining on Thai food, the wine seemed to complement the spices well. This was exceptionally light and fresh, more than I was expecting from anything from India which seems to throw it all at you normally. With a very pale colour, there was citrus and floral notes with crisp lemongrass. It was so light, it would be ideal on its own as an aperitif even. 

As before, I enjoyed both bottles and maybe bottles I would not have chosen myself. Unless you really know what you are talking about, wine can be an absolute mind field and services like this just filter out some great bottles that could well become your favourites. It's a really accessible way to get into wine, or just to enjoy a decent bottle.

Subscriptions are available at two levels - "Grape Expectations" is £24.90 per month and the "Age of Raisin" £39.90 per month which includes more prestigious labels.

lepetitballon.co.uk

I received samples for review. Words and thoughts, as always, my own. 
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"Imagine summer at its most idyllic: warm weather with a light breeze; languid moments where everyday concerns make way for a flight of fancy; and long evenings that you never want to end."

And then you remember that you live in the UK. It's cold, politics are going down the drain and it's probably raining. But hey ho, it reminds us to appreciate the little luxuries we still have in life, right?

And one of these luxuries is indeed a box of Pierre Marcolini chocolates. My first encounter with this brand was years ago on a trip to Brussels. One of our friends living there was giving us a culinary (and ok, slightly absinthy) tour of the city and brought us to the Marcolini store there. This was my first taste of chocolate of this calibre. The shop looked like a jewellers; encased in large glass boxes was the spot-lit luxurious black packaging, and the row upon row of perfect jewel like chocolates, almost impossible to choose from. I ended up spending about 50 Euros on a box which seems ludicrous, but with more restraint than I ever thought I had, brought them home where I savoured them one by one over the course of a couple of weeks. Even though this was a good decade ago, I can still remember the taste of some of them. Money well spent.



And here I have a box of the 2017 Summer collection; Les Reves de Pierre. Once you slip off the raspberry card wrap, the familiar matt black packaging with a white foiled logo is revealed. The silky ribbon tab helps you lift the lid to reveal a beautiful selection of small cubes, in whites, blush pinks and lipstick reds. I'm a sucker for all this, and get a thrill out of the whole product experience and the brand story these details help tell. You may mindlessly rip the packaging off a regular chocolate bar and chomp away (what did the Milky Bar Kid know, eh), but these are for savouring not scoffing.

The collection is a series of smooth ganache and cereal pralines, with a base of either quinoa, sesame, spelt or barley and seasonal fruits. In the box you'll find:
  • Crunchy chocolate quinoa praline and raspberry ganache, coated in dark chocolate
  • Crunchy three cereal praline (sesame, quinoa and spelt), passion fruit and lime zest caramel, coated in milk chocolate
  • Crunchy sesame praline, yuzu caramel, coated in white chocolate
  • Crunchy spelt praline, vanilla and star anise ganache, coated in white chocolate
  • Crunchy white almond praline, lemon and bergamot ganache, coated in white chocolate
  • Crunch pearl barley praline, lemon and pink peppercorn caramel, coated in dark chocolate

These may be small but they really pack a punch. Unquestionable raspberry pings right through and its sweetness contrasted with fine dark chocolate and the most delicate quinoa praline, giving a light crunch. The textural contrast is lovely. Mouth-feel is a dreadful term, but this is what these chocolates are particularly successful for. Crunchy sesame praline, with a slight savoury sits underneath a really zingy yuzu caramel, the citrus is vibrant. Across the whole box flavours are bold, unusual and intense but always balanced and exciting.

I love them all as I expected to. At £19 for a box of 18 or £35 for 36 pieces, they are at the top end but for a treat to yourself or a gift, I couldn't think of anything more indulgent.





If you are passing one of their stores you can also experience their Esquimau choc ice bars where you can make-you-own bar, choosing from a collection of toppings and chocolate dips or a tub of their ice cream. Flavours include Matcha Tea Frisson; a matcha tea ice cream with yuzu coulis and candied orange or Rose Pistachio Frisson; rose ice cream, raspberry coulis with Garrigues honey and toasted pistachios. Heaven.

The collection is available from 11th May 2017 in-store and eu.marcolini.com

I received samples for review. Words and thoughts, as always, are my own. 
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The Graphic Foodie

About Me

With a love of my home town, this blog lists frequently updated Brighton restaurant reviews for both Brightonians and visitors to navigate to all the best food spots in the city. Although the focus is on our fantastic local independent restaurants, you can also discover selected cafes, supper clubs and pop-up restaurants. In the mix are also my kitchen experiments and family recipes from the Abruzzo region of Italy, food-related design, product reviews and book recommendations.

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