What’s in a name? For the absolute bejesus of me I couldn’t remember the name of this place that I’d fleeting seen on the feeds…finally some exciting, fresh and inspired Mexican food in Brighton…sign ME UP.  Yeah, sure Rosie (forever my dining partner of choice) I’ll book a table. Ok, so a pop up with no permanent address…Err…started with an "L" right? Lock, Lalock..no "T"...Tock, Twock, Taock...shout out to Instagram’s frankly useless search facility…rummaging in my followers list I finally found them - Tlaloc. 

But this really is a name that serious diners in Brighton should know; as an aside, I could launch into a good 2000 words on the importance of business naming but I’ll save that little rant to launch my upcoming branding blog that this little adventure has inspired. Cock-headed I listened to the reasoning behind this from one of the founders after my meal…ready? Tlaloc is the God of rain. It rains a lot in England, hence the name. Thank goodness I had a good couple of margaritas in me to switch me into full off duty mode or we would have had a situation on our hands with the full force of my expressive Italian hand gestures thrown in for good measure. Make it easy for people to find your business, folks.

Tlaloc has been at its temporary, evening home in Oseta Cafe on North Road for 10 months which is far longer than I thought having only recently come across it. There seems to have been just a small murmur of interest behind it, which is building up and I’ve seen more of the people that influence me sharing it. 

One of the highlight points seemed to be that they serve the best margarita in town and I can certainly vouch for that. The Hibiscus Margarita is an essential order; tart, zingy with a ferocious heat from the salt and chilli rim, softened with the sweetness from the fruitiness of the flower. But don’t stop there; there are plenty more to choose from on the menu and are perfect to knock back with the food. 

Oh and the food…there are three starters and I suggest you order them all. Sikil P’ak, a Mayan pumpkin seed dip makes for a great intro. Sweet, deep, smokey and ideal to get stuck in with the homemade tortillas. Aguachile of the day, Mexico’s answer to ceviche, was with prawns, perfectly prepared with delicate fine textures, heat, sweetness. The aerated citrus foam didn't bring much to the party and this isn’t a dish for everyone. Raw fish isn’t generally for me but Rosie, who eats it with the enthusiasm of a hungry seal, convinced me that if this is your thing, then you'll be wanting it sharpish. 

You are invited to suck the heads of the prawns in the Camarones con alioli negro dish, and had they not been overcooked would have rewarded in a bit of tasty gruesome that gourmands relish.  The saline squid ink alioli brought the drama, the ink adding richness to the dish.

Don’t skip the tacos that form a good chunk of the mains. Vegans are well catered for here and I was almost tempted away, but damn, the octopus taco. Visually beautiful, the tentacle wrapping round the taco like it was meant to be. “Al Pastor” should include pineapple which you wouldn’t notice but maybe it was there amongst the other, perfectly harmonious flavours. Wickedly hot, you will want to eat this. Just not in front of a first date. 

On a par with this was the quesadilla de birria; super succulent, melting, pulled goat with just so much smoke and a deep, deep gravy. The fresh, zesty flavours that contrast this, the essence of which makes Mexican food so invigorating, were there in spades along with the delicious squish and crunch of it all. 

Interestingly, you’ll find a slight refinement to the food which I imagine comes from the care and love of the people behind it. Luckily it is not distracting, other than the unnecessary foam that features here and there. This food really doesn't need these flourishes though, it can stand up without it. 

As I said, the set up is currently untraditional in a cafe by day, the loos through the kitchen into what seems like a long forgotten set for Rising Damp (so terribly Brighton) with faded floral wallpaper and yellowed paintwork that hasn't seen a paintbrush since 1972. But this is, by far, the most noteworthy Mexican food I have eaten in Brighton. If ever a place deserved a permanent home in this city this is it. I hope they succeed, and will be a name, even as difficult to pronounce and remember as it is, that will be on everyone's lips.

Meal for two with service and four cocktails £70.

Tlaloc
Facebook page
Currently at:
Oseta Cafe
34 North Road
Brighton

Drinks are great. The large bar area is prime for those dropping in for booze, nibbles and a game of foosball. I enjoyed my pretty hibiscus Margarita and gin and tonic from the lengthy cocktail list. There's also fresh pressed juices, Mexican beer and quite extensive tequila menu with a selection of all three types; Blanco, Reposado and Añejo. They are all 100% blue agave too unlike inferior brands that can contain just 50%. I wouldn't mind going back for the tequila flight to learn a little more even though I did go on a tequila bender with Clio Roccas* once, who is now a Tequileira, so have already been sold to the cause. This time though we opted for a sip of a super smooth and smoky Mezcal which you have to try.

The menu contains the tacos, tostadas, enchiladas and quesadillas you'd expect with both classic and modern interpretations. When I think of Mexican food I think of vibrant flavours, contrasting textures, acidity, heat... on the whole though the food was lacking those highlights and that punch. Most successful was the Pasilla chicken tacos that had good smoke from the chargrill and a decent level of heat in the (intentionally!) burnt habanero salsa. With a soft tortilla I like some crunch from a salad or radish which this had too.

The steak in the tacos was beautifully tender. The rest of the elements were simple but as the steak was so good, I didn't mind. 

Empanadas I adore. These were stuffed with an earthy mushroom and sweetcorn filling. The pastry could have been crisper, but were enjoyable none the less. Is cauliflower cheese a Mexican dish? No idea, but this was a pleasant side dish. Not much heat or the promised smoke, but fine. It's cauliflower cheese.

I was looking particularly forward to the raw salmon tostadas which looked the part but the lime and tamari were a no-show. The textures were all quite similar really and a bit slimy by nature. Again the sweet potato and feta Taquitos were not crispy and there were no discernible flavours coming through, maybe having too many elements so they became muddied. 

Service was as enthusiastic as an X Factor first audition. I was taken aback at first but really warmed to the bounding friendliness. Although I normally prefer things a little more low-key, it suits the fun style of the restaurant and the atmosphere. All the staff seemed really upbeat and welcoming and if they keep it up could be a real USP of this place.

Churros for dessert are a given. These were light and crisp. With chocolate and caramel sauce, I can't see who couldn't enjoy these. 

I don't get the spoons though. Horrible to eat with and to hold. If I'm out at a restaurant, the last thing I want to eat with is oversized toddler cutlery. The only thing this could be is a marketing hook (something about a spoon amnesty) but instead of stealing these for a free taco, next time I'll be bringing my own dessert cutlery from home. 

It's hard not to be overly critical of the London chains that are moving into Brighton. Many are fiercely anticipated and coming from the big smoke, you naturally put them on a pedestal. The super-hyped Polpo has so far been disappointing to many people I speak to, and I know I'm not the only one praying that Franco Manca (opening soon) remains true to their original quality and craft despite the big buy-out and expansion. MeatLiquor brought something quite new to the city and continues to thrive and I think Wahaca should also do really well here, the relaxed, fun and inexpensive nature suits the city and and we lack many large venue options.

I did enjoy my visit here, although I'd expected the food to be a little better, I'd certainly come back to make a bigger dent in the tequila menu and try some of the larger dishes.

Wahaca Brighton
North Street
Brighton

I dined as a guest of Wahaca. *This is my only shameless celebrity namedrop, I promise.